Day 7 - 15 June - Daintree River and Forest Trails

For the six of the group remaining in Port Douglas, today was the last day of activities. Jan and Merille were feeling the need for a recovery day, following yesterday's energetic activities on the reef. The rest of us (Col, Don, Joye, Duncan, Kathie and Graeme) wanted some vigorous walking activity. We had heard favourable recommendations regarding walking trails located close to the Daintree punt... on the north side. Most of us had last seen Daintree village 25 years ago... so that was also placed on the day's agenda.

At breakfast, we said goodbye to the four returning to Sydney, and at 9:00 AM headed off along the Mossman road. Upon stepping out of the car at Daintree village, we heard a cheery voice from the local shop say "What can I do to help you". Joye confessed we needed someone to organise our day. The lady expressed confidence in performing such a task and marched us into her tourist shop. As it turned out, her husband ran an electric boat (very quietly) that could approach crocodiles without causing them stress... she could fix us up with a couple of tickets. And yes... the Forest Trail venue was previously owned by her sister, but she could also find us tickets for that. We were so lucky she had all these contacts. Graeme insisted that we needed a 10% discount off standard price... to which she immediately agreed... giving us tickets that showed the discount was standard for groups of 4 or more. We liked this lady's style. However, she did also give us return vouchers for our 2 cars crossing the punt! Bonus!

100 million years of evolutionary adaption in the world's oldest rainforest

We met the husband and cruised down the river to the area where the crocs hang out. We had to wait for a big noisy launch to clear the site before we quietly quietly glided up to the shallows where one large (5 metre) croc was sunning. The husband did not describe the crocs as rapacious killers. He emphasised that crocs need only feed once every six months. They are lazy opportunistic feeders. Most aggression is shown during mating season... not in defending territory against other crocs, but in trying to impress the lady crocs. He said that as the number of crocs increased (following protection orders being applied) the size of the territories did not reduce... but the sites for crocs extended further upstream. The colder nights had worked in our favour in that the crocs were more eager to collect the sunshine to warm themselves... so sat higher on the banks.  He was most impressed by the efficiency and survival abilities. We went 200 metres further downstream and saw a bigger crock enjoying the sun. They looked so peaceful and content. Made you feel like leaning out and giving them a pat. I'm just joking ... OK.

The green tree snake is on the lower branch

An unexpected benefit was the number of green tree snakes we saw on limbs overhanging the river. They too were seeking the sun to get their metabolism running.

The peacefulness of the river made for a memorable experience. Duncan was able to identify different types of kingfishers flitting around the trees; the quietness of the rainforest (with a minimum of engine noise); the gentle rocking ofthe boat... all seemed a far cry from our usual city rat-race.

Next stop was the Forest Trails venue. We crossed the punt [for free] and made our way down country roads into the foothills. There we saw a narrow side road and made our way over another 3 kms of rough track. We came upon a tin shed .. assumed this was the start of the tracks ... so chose to have our lunch before we started. While at lunch, the owner drove her 4-wheel buggy down from her home (hidden in the trees). She gave us the history of the place; how she and her husband saved the property from the ecological vandalism by the previous owner (we did not declare our friendship with the previous owner's sister). She explained how her husband and she had a building design business in England but gave it up to enjoy the climate and environment of Far North Queensland. She showed us a the area of land on top of a ridge they were flattening to build their permanent home. (Their current home would be let as holiday accommodation.)

Kathie doing her 'Jane' impersonation

The trails were quite rough... just what we were seeking. Melaleuca trees were in flower and masses of Emperor butterflies were feeding off the nectar. We had previously not thought of butterflies playing a serious role in fertilising forest trees. We saw cassowary footprints in the mud next to some stream crossings and then several scats. We saw lots of evidence of ground being turned over by feral pigs. The owner had told us of the extensive damage that just one wild pig can do.

The place did not have the unique feel we enjoyed at the Botanical Ark ... but it did give a better feel of rainforests that were recovering from old growth extraction. It did provide some great 'Tarzan' vines from which to swing.

On the way back, we met the husband who was working the car punt. The Daintree community is pretty small and tightly knit.

We wanted to see Newell Beach where our son and family had holidayed on a couple of occasions. The short diversion allowed us to see the small beachside community that appeared to be a commuter suburb of Mossman and  Port Douglas. Other than coconut groves and the long sweeping beach, it did not seem to have many attractions, an ideal quiet location.

Investor returns were certainly in keeping with the name of the resort

Port Douglas owes so much to Christopher Skase. So much of his work remains the best aspects of the town. He may have built his landmarks with other people's money without proper disclosure... but he put Port Douglas on the map. We could not leave Port Douglas without paying homage to him at his famous Mirage Resort. They had replaced the 'Pixie-Blue' colour scheme but have continued to rely on Christopher's style. It is surprising how well the place has been maintained. We sat in the sun and had a cup of coffee and speculated on the importance of treating claims for emphysema more seriously.

Jan had purchased food for our evening meal. So for one last time, we congregated around the pool to re-tell our daring adventures (suitably embossed). We had to hurry because the second of this year's State of Origin  (NRL) matches bagan at 8pm. We were hoping to find a local pub full of maroon jumpers suitable for baiting and mocking... showing the religious zeal for which Queensland supporters are noted. Unfortunately, all the pubs were full of tourists, predominately from Sydney.

We stayed watching the football until half time. The degree of passion on display reflected the latest budget speech... lacking in commitment. I suspect the true Queensland supporters went to some trouble to avoid tourists on this, their most holy night.